For a long time, I’d always wanted to visit Carlsbad Caverns National Park. But I live in California. I’m not that close. I’d go to other national parks in the Southwest or go to the Four Corners area and stare forlornly at that opposite end of New Mexico and sigh. I didn’t have enough time to drive out there.

I knew El Paso was close to Carlsbad Caverns. And then one day, I decided to do some research. What’s this? There’s another park near Carlsbad? And it has the highest point in Texas? And White Sands is a reasonable drive away?

Sign me up!

I like to do a weeklong jaunt (usually somewhere in the Southwest) every winter. The National Parks are a little less crowded and the desert heat isn’t so intense. In 2018, it was Death Valley / Bryce / Grand Canyon. In 2019, it was Page / Monument Valley / Four Corners. This time, it was this lovely slice of West Texas and New Mexico over four glorious days.

Of course, traveling in a COVID world is fraught with uncertainty. I almost had to bail on this trip because Carlsbad Caverns was closed for a time (and it was the crown jewel of this jaunt). But, luckily it reopened. Some amenities are closed, like ranger-led tours, but if you like communing with nature and follow all the rules and regulations and keep somewhat flexible, you’ll have a great time. I was also by myself and it’s pretty easy to keep your distance from everyone else out on the trail, and many people were very courteous and wearing masks. So go out there if you’re comfortable.

This is a very doable National Park trio for sure and has some spectacular sights. And you can say you’re a highpointer!

Tips:

• El Paso makes an excellent entry / exit point if you’re like me and feel that driving is too far and need to fly. Bonus: When you fly into town, you get a spectacular view of the Franklin Mountains. That definitely does not suck.
• If you flew like I did, you’ll need to pack smartly. I’ve backpacked before, so I’m used to getting everything I need into a (relatively) small space. I own a 65L Gregory backpack and had to carry everything in it, including my tent (which packs down to practically nothing, huzzah), clothing, sleeping bag, and camp stove and some other gear. I did have to check in my pack. It did come back in one piece. Whew. Also remember that you can’t bring a propane canister on a plane!!! I rented a car, and got some supplies after I touched down (I bought camp fuel and food at the local Dick’s Sporting Goods and a Walmart that was next door).
• Guadalupe Mountains NP is about 110 miles from El Paso, just a hair under two hours. Carlsbad Caverns is another 45 minutes by car from Guadalupe Mountains. White Sands is even closer to El Paso, about 85 miles, so about an hour, 20 minutes drive. If you drive in a giant circle, White Sands is about 3 hours, 45 minutes from Carlsbad Caverns. It’s about 3 hours and change from Guadalupe Mountains if you go through El Paso. Plan your route to whatever suits you, but none of the driving times are unreasonable for sure.
• Guadalupe Mountains makes an excellent base if you’re spending several days between there and Carlsbad Caverns. The camping is great! If you’re not like me and prefer a bed, there is lodging in Whites City (the town adjacent to Carlsbad Caverns) or another 15 miles away in the town of Carlsbad, NM. There is also lots of Bureau of Land Management (BLM) land in the area, and you could find some dispersed camping for free. I like to use freecampsites.net for this purpose.
• If you need somewhere to stay near White Sands, you can head to Alamogordo, NM, or Las Cruces, NM. (I stayed in Alamogordo.) If you’re approaching from Carlsbad and drive through the Lincoln National Forest, you can camp in the forest or stay in Alamogordo (that is on the way and closer than Las Cruces).
• Please note there is no gas between El Paso and Guadalupe/Carlsbad. Make sure you have a full tank before going in either direction. You can fill up in Whites City or Carlsbad (the town) on your way out. Those are your best bets if you want for convenient highway access. Also note that it is super windy out there and driving into a headwind can cause your gas efficiency to go down!

Day 1: Guadalupe Mountains National Park

I drove in from El Paso, approaching from the west on U.S 62/180. I left town just before 8 and was at the ranger station by 10am. The drive is pretty nice. You can see the mountains from quite a ways out, but when you start the ascent and they’re suddenly in your face, it’s breathtaking. There are a couple of rest stops with terrific views to pop into just as you ascend if you are driving agog and don’t want to cause a traffic accident because you are gobsmacked by the beauty of these mountains.

The main ranger station is right off U.S. 62/180. It’s called Pine Springs Visitor Center. For most people, this is their entry to the park. (There is another station at Dog Canyon, but that is further north and more remote — you cannot get there from Pine Springs easily via car.) This is also the area where you’ll find Pine Springs Campground if you’re looking to camp.

There is no toll gate here. You can pay your fees at the ranger station, or do the honor system thing and pay at the trailhead (you don’t have to visit the ranger station if you just want to hike). But go see the folks at the ranger station. They’re very nice. Also, if you’re unfamiliar with the area, one of the first things you’ll notice is the giant sign that says Guadalupe Mountains NP is in the Mountain Time Zone even if your cell phone says otherwise. Yes, you’re in that sliver of Texas that isn’t in Central Time. They’ve got clocks near the trailheads too in case you have no idea whether your phone is lying to you. (And yes, I had no idea what time it was several times.)

If you plan on doing any backcountry camping — there are plenty of opportunities to, and you can even camp near the top of Guadalupe Peak, the highest point in Texas — you’ll have to get your free permits at the ranger station. Also ask about the weather. Everything I read about Guadalupe Mountains mentioned it is windy there. It is. So you might want to check on weather, especially if you want to hike Guadalupe Peak, or any other mountain there. Thunderstorms and high winds are not things you want to deal with while standing on any summit.

After chatting with the lovely folks at the visitor center, I went to find a campsite. Camping at Pine Springs is first-come, first-served and super limited. It’s also $15 a night. There are only 18 sites available. The ranger suggested driving to the campsite, finding a space, staking your claim (at least put up a tent, don’t just park your car there) and then paying for the space. If you plan to camp, get there early. Since it was barely 10am, I was lucky and found a space and set up. Some spaces have trees, some don’t. The trees are definitely nice for shade when it’s hotter and may make a nice wind break.

The spaces include a tent pad and a picnic table. There are no fire rings because open fires / wood fires are strictly prohibited in the entire park. Remember, it’s windy there year-round and you could cause a wildfire in mere seconds if you light a fire, so don’t be a jerk and heed this rule! Camp stoves and propane stoves are fine, though.

The campgrounds are really nice. There is a vault toilet on one end and ample parking near all the sites so you don’t have to haul your gear very far. (Some sites have parking right in front of them — I snagged one of those.) A short walk from the campground is a larger parking lot with proper bathrooms (no showers though), a spigot for all the drinking water containers you need to fill, and even a dishwashing sink.

The large parking area is also where you self-register for your campsite. It’s one of those deals where you fill out the info on an envelope, put your cash in, and stick it in the slot. However, if you need to pay with a credit card, you can simply go back to the visitor center and do that. (There is a short trail that starts at the vault toilets — it’s not a far walk at all.) Also note that if you pay by cash, you need exact change and you cannot get change at the visitor center. (I was told this is some sort of federal regulation, which I didn’t know!) Either way, be a nice person and pay for your spot. It’s all the honor system, support the parks, OK?

The ranger had suggested I pay for what I think I needed and then just put in for additional days later if I wanted. This way, if weather changes or your plans change, you’re not stuck paying more than you needed. I actually did this (more on this later, and this is one reason first-come, first-served sites are great).

Once I set up camp and paid for my spot, it was time for some hiking! Pine Springs Campground is next to the trailhead for several popular trails, including Guadalupe Peak, Devil’s Hall, The Bowl, and El Capitan. (Side note: as a Californian, I think Yosemite when I think El Capitan, but the Texan version is really neat too!)

Devil’s Hall Trail

About 4 miles round trip (my tracker said 4.6 miles, but other routes say 3.6 so I’m splitting the difference). Rocky. Some scrambling involved but otherwise not a ton of elevation gain.

I decided I did not want to do the peak the first day. So I opted for something a little more chill. This is a pretty great hike if you have kids, take the younger ones if you feel like they can handle the distance. There is a lot of scrambling and rock climbing and they’ll love that. None of this scrambling is that hardcore, but if you’re not into that or hate super rocky trails, you might want to pass on this one.

The trail starts in the parking lot next to the Pine Springs Campground. Again, this is the starting point for several trails, but everything is well-marked. (I was honestly impressed by the signage — it’s some of the best I’ve seen in a National Park.) If you didn’t pay your entrance fee at the ranger station, you can pay at the trailhead using the fee envelopes. If you have an annual pass, just display it on your car.

You’ll encounter a sign off the bat because you’re at the junction of four different routes. There are several junctions, just follow anything that says Devil’s Hall. Again, it’s pretty straightforward.

The first half of the hike is on an established trail. There’s a little up and down (don’t forget, you’re at elevation, so you may huff and puff a little bit if you came from sea level!). It’s pretty standard fare as far as trails go. The scenery is nice. You’ll see Guadalupe Peak to your right and a whole host of mountains to your left. There are also lots of pretty trees, not just your usual desert fare. It was winter when I went, so most of the trees lost their leaves, but I bet the colors are gorgeous in the fall. You’ll scramble down a couple of rocks, but again, it’s pretty standard hiking fare.

About halfway, you’ll see a sign that says the trail continues through the wash. (You’re hiking next to said wash the whole time.) This is where the real fun begins. The wash is straightforward and easy to follow. It’s pretty hard to get lost in there, honestly. If you tried to get out of the wash, you’d run into mountains. So you have to stay in there! On the way out, there’s a big ol’ sign that points you back to the trail, so again, don’t worry about getting lost.

The wash is a great Choose Your Own Adventure kind of deal. It’s rocky. There are rocks to scramble over. Big ones, even. There are some paths you can scamper up to if you don’t feel like climbing, but really, choose your own route. The farther you go, you’ll notice some neat brick-like walls. It’s like someone built them but they’re natural! Geology is neat. There’s also lots of shade in this area if you need a respite, and more pretty trees. You’ll go down the wash for a while.

Just when you think you’ve climbed a thousand rocks and you’re not sure if you’re getting anywhere, you’ll come to a dead end. And then you’ll see a neat formation called the Hiker’s Staircase.

You’ve gotta scramble up the staircase. Don’t feel bad if it takes you more than one try. (That was the case for me.) I suggest starting on the left side and picking your way diagonally — most of the widest footfalls are on that side.

Once you get up the staircase, it’s neat.

You have to continue down the wash — more wash! — for a little bit. The wall-like formations are more prominent here. And then, you’ll see the sign.

The hallway itself is pretty neat. I know nothing about geology or how this whole deal was formed but it’s neat. I came to it at midday so the lighting isn’t the best, but it was cool anyway. You could venture beyond the hall but there’s not really anything out there.

Do note that the hallway is essentially a wind tunnel. If it’s windy, it gets blustery and cold in there! Bring a windbreaker!

Once you’ve had your fill, just go back from whence you came. Again, you can’t get lost in the wash, and once you hit the trail sign, you know you’re halfway home!

I got back to camp around 1pm and had a lovely lunch. Around 2, I figured I probably had time for another hike. (I am a glutton for punishment apparently.)

You’ve got plenty of options if you want to hop in your car. The Frijole Ranch area is another major trailhead, and is about a mile east on the highway. There’s also McKittrick Canyon, another neat area (I didn’t have time to hang out there, unfortunately.) McKittrick is 8 miles east on the highway, and do note that they close the gate there at the end of the day, so don’t get stuck!

I decided I would head to Frijole, but not in my car. (I would regret this later, but like I said, I’m a glutton for punishment.)

Pine Springs to Frijole Ranch (via the Tejas / Frijole / Foothills trails)

6 miles round trip, but your mileage may vary depending on what route you take. Up and down but elevation gain isn’t much. If you add on Manzanita Spring, that’s another 0.6 miles round trip.

There are a couple of variations for this route, but the one I chose is flatter and more direct. Not super scenic — you can actually hear and see highway traffic at one point — but if you wanted a light stroll and something flat and chill, this is for you. If I hadn’t already hiked close to 5 miles earlier, I might have taken the scenic route on the way back and maybe even done more hiking at the Frijole Ranch end. But I did none of those things.

The trailhead here is the same one for Devil’s Hall. At the four-way junction, you’re going to peel off immediately to the right for the Tejas Trail. You’ll walk toward the wash and eventually cross it. If you were going to The Bowl or going north toward Dog Canyon, this is the same route you’d go. Lots of backpacking opportunities there! But that’s not what we’re here for.

After you cross the wash, you’ll come to a T junction. Take the Frijole Trail to the right, otherwise you’re going up a mountain!

There’s a little up and down here, but it’s mostly established trail. You’ll see your standard desert fare and get nice views of the mountains to your left.

After a bit, you’ll see another junction. You can continue on the Frijole Trail if you choose, or take the Foothill Trail. Some people do this as a loop. I wanted to stay on the flats, so I went to the Foothill Trail. The Foothill Trail is really more of a utility trail. Like I said, you’ll hear the highway at some point. But I did like taking in the surrounding scenery.

When you see a sign for the corral, you’ll know you’re near. (Don’t go toward the corral though unless you’re on a horse.) You’ll eventually see some picnic shelters and can peel off the trail at that point. This is the Frijole Ranch area. There are bathrooms in addition to the picnic shelters, so it’s a nice place to take a break. This is also a trailhead for Smith Springs, Bear Canyon, and other longer backpacking trails. (There is a parking lot here.)

I had intentions of doing the Smith Spring hike, which is a 2.8 mile loop. But I had already walked 3 miles here and had to walk that back, and already did almost 5 miles on top of that. So my legs doth protest. Instead, I opted for the short trip to Manzanita Spring, which is along the Smith Spring route.

The Frijole Ranch area includes an actual preserved ranch. It has a seasonal museum (it was closed when I was there). There’s a lot of neat history here!

If you want to hike, the Smith Spring loop is just beyond the ranch on the paved path. If you want to go to Manzanita Spring, turn right at the loop and followed the paved path until it ends. There is a sign and you can’t miss the spring.

Again, you can continue on the loop to Smith Spring and you can either connect to the Frijole Trail to go back to Pine Springs, or wind up back at the ranch and take the Foothill Trail back.

I went back the way I came. I was really tired. Plus, at that point, I had maybe 45 minutes before sunset.

The mountains were pretty on the way back. It was a small salve for my aching feet.

I made it back to camp before dark and settled in for a cold and windy night. The wind is no joke, by the way. My tent held up just fine. But there were points I thought I would be blown off and wind up somewhere else in Texas, or maybe in Kansas a la a reverse Dorothy.

Day 2: Carlsbad Caverns

The next morning dawned and it was cold. I think I woke up at 6:45am but didn’t want to move out of my very very warm sleeping bag. I knew I’d have to get going eventually though because the crown jewel of my trip was on tap: Carlsbad Caverns.

It was forecast to be a windy day, so what better way to shelter out of the wind than many many feet underground?! The caverns are a mere 45 minutes away by car. Just head east on U.S. 62/180 and you’ll be there before you know it. And thankfully, New Mexico is in Mountain Time, so no convoluted math there.

Once you get to Whites City (it’s a left off the highway if you’re coming from Guadalupe Mountains), you’ll continue through town into the canyons. You’ll eventually wind up at the Carlsbad Caverns Visitor Center. There are plenty of pullouts along the way and even a few trails if you want to do some overland hiking. There is also a scenic drive (9.5 miles one way) just before the visitor center. It’s a gravel/dirt road but most cars should be able to handle it.

Or you can just go straight for the caverns!

Carlsbad Caverns also does not have a fee gate. Just roll into the parking lot. There is a terrific view of the plains below if you park at the far end (you can also view the bats flying from here when the bats are around).

Once inside the visitor center, you pay your fee and can get maps and stuff. There are also plenty of fun exhibits explaining the cavern formation and history (you get to learn about guano, which for the uninitiated is bat poop!). There’s also the gift shop (two of them, actually) and a restaurant, though the restaurant was closed when I was there.

COVID protocols limit the number of people to 75 in the visitor center. You may have to wait. Get there early. They also won’t let anyone into the caverns after 2:15pm, so take note of that! Unfortunately, there were no ranger-guided tours available because of COVID as well, but you can still see plenty without the guided tour.

I got there just after 9am and it was practically empty. Score! I flashed my pass and got my maps and was on my way.

There are two ways to tour Carlsbad Caverns. You can take the Natural Entrance route, where you walk down a steep paved walkway into the giant gaping hole (it’s cool). Or, you can take the elevator directly to the Big Room.

If you’re short on time, I recommend you just do the Big Room. It’s pretty spectacular on its own. But if you have all the time in the world to meander, by all means, go to the Natural Entrance.

I believe you can actually do the route in reverse (Big Room to the Natural Entrance), but that is a hell of an uphill, especially at the end. Also, for COVID protocols, they are only letting people go in one direction, so you have to go through the Natural Entrance first should you choose that route. Again, unless you’re interested in huffing and puffing up a paved walkway, I wouldn’t do it in reverse even if the option was available.

The Natural Entrance is really cool. And yes, that walkway would be a bear going upward.

The Natural Entrance route goes about 1.2 miles into the cavern and eventually connects to the Big Room. There is plenty to see and do. You could probably speed through it in about an hour and change but honestly, take your time.

Tip: Go to the bathroom before you enter the cave. There are no bathrooms in there until you get to the Big Room. So do your business or else you really will rush through the cave.

Photographer’s Tip: Cameras are allowed in the caverns. Just don’t touch any of the structures or swing any gigantic lenses into them, of course. Tripods are actually allowed as well, but I personally wouldn’t feel comfortable setting up a full tripod in the walkway, and you’d have to do that every 10 minutes because there are a ton of neat things to photograph. I did not have a tripod with me because I had to travel light. You will need one though if you’re shooting with a DSLR because it’s dark in there even with the lights. I would suggest a monopod if you have one (you can lean against the rails), or one of those cool Joby tripods you can bend and wrap around things (you can wrap it around the rails). Otherwise, you’ll have to get creative and use ledges to get your exposures. I actually wound up using my phone most of the time because it does have an excellent low-light camera. Flash is permitted in the cave, but it would probably wash a lot of stuff out.

With that, I took a zillion photos. I kept whispering WOW at every turn. The formations, the decorations — it’s all simply amazing.

Eventually, you’ll get to the Big Room. It’s essentially a gigantic loop. There is a shortcut in the middle, but do the whole thing. This route is about 1.5 miles and will take the average person about two hours. But if you stop and stare and photograph everything, it’ll take you longer.

Some of the most famous formations are in this room, like the Rock of Ages. From far away, I think he looks like a bearded Buddha. It was my favorite formation, hands down.

But honestly, everything is cool down there! Fairyland! Some structures that looked like Angkor Wat! Pointy things! Chandeliers! Draperies! Photos do not do this place justice, just go and see it for yourself already.

I will definitely be back for a ranger-led tour when those start up again. (They take you to other places that are otherwise roped off.) There are plenty of rangers in the Big Room, always ready to answer questions and tell you about the formations. They are super nice people! Talk to them! There is also an audio tour available, which I didn’t do. There is plenty of signage along the way so you can get some context as to what you’re looking at.

I spent maybe 4 1/2 hours in there. I told you I took my time. It was well worth it.

With that, I headed back to camp at Guadalupe Mountains and settled in for another cold night. Not as windy but definitely cold. I got a bonus shot of the stars from camp.

Day 3: The Top of Texas

The next morning dawned cold. Again. But it was also incredibly windy. I had chosen this particular day to tackle the peak because the forecast said it wouldn’t be as windy. Liars.

I trudged out eventually and headed to the trailhead around 8:30am.

Guadalupe Peak

8.5 miles round trip. About 3,000 feet of elevation gain. This is not for the faint of heart or beginning hikers. Be careful out there!

When you think about being at the top of a peak, you probably think about climbing gear and whatnot. Guadalupe Peak requires no mountaineering experience at all. That being said, it’s not a walk in the park. It does snow up there (it did not snow when I was there though). And did I mention it was windy? This day had serious gusts, maybe even “blow you off a mountain peak” gusts. In fact, I ran into two ladies while I was out there who said they chose to turn around because the wind was severe. So do pay attention to weather!

I am a relatively experienced hiker. I’m no expert, but I’m no greenhorn either. I prepped for this by doing a couple of long hikes with similar elevation gain in the San Gabriel Mountains, near where I live in Los Angeles. I have done Vernal and Nevada Falls in Yosemite (also grueling). I even hiked most of Angels Landing in Zion once. This hike still kicked my ass. Maybe it was because I’d put a lot of mileage on my feet in the run up to this (I also hiked a strenuous hike the day before I flew to El Paso.) Maybe I’m just old. Whatever it was, I did this very very slowly. I also hate cliff sides. I am not afraid of heights but I rethink that on cliff side routes. Honestly, if you’ve done a lot of high elevation hiking, nothing on this route is out of the ordinary. If you hike in the San Gabriels, there are lots of cliff side routes. But I was still scared a little, mostly on the way down.

You should still try this hike if you feel up to it! Maybe bring a friend. I did this alone because I hike alone a lot. I met lots of nice people along the way though. I also let a lot of people pass and lap me. There are no rewards for speed, just get up and get down in one piece!

The trailhead is at the Pine Springs parking lot. I suggest you use the bathroom before you go. Once you get into the cliff side areas, there are not a lot of places to go off-trail if you need to do your business (I learned this the hard way on the way back). About three miles in, there is a backpackers campground. I actually considered backpacking up there at one point when I planned this trip. I am glad I did not, but if you are fit enough to do it and the wind is OK, I’m sure it is an amazing experience to camp up there.

The first third of this hike is steep. Once you leave the desert floor, you switchback steeply against the side of the mountain. The views are incredible. They get better and better.

You can approach from the bottom an alternate way by using the horse trail. This adds an extra mile or so to your jaunt but is less steep. If you want to do this, you would go toward Devil’s Hall and look for the turnoff to the peak. Everything is well-signed. You could throw in Devil’s Hall as a side trip on the way down if you wanted to.

I went up the switchbacks.

A little over two miles in, you’ll reach a rock outcropping and will make a big left turn to the other side of the mountain. Here, you’re suddenly in the forest. It’s amazing. It’s also where I encountered the most severe wind on the way up. This is probably where the ladies I met decided to turn around. I figured I was at least being blown into the mountain. But it was still pretty wild. I soldiered on.

You go through some forest for another mile plus. Some switchbacks but it’s not as steep and a little more pleasant. You get great views of the wash below and the mountains across the way (and you can see the Tejas Trail cut steeply into the mountains on the other side).

At about the three-mile mark, you encounter the junction for the campsite. Take a break if you want. Go past the junction and you’ll encounter a bridge. Once you cross the bridge, you’ll see the final climb to the top. I saw this and questioned my life choices. But I made it some two-thirds of the way and I was going to get there, come hell or high water.

The last push is about a mile. It is steep, possibly more so than the beginning. It is also pretty rocky here, so take your time. The views are pretty great. You also see El Capitan towering beneath you. That’s when you know you’re getting close.

Near the top, there is a lot of rock scrambling. It kind of sucked. But almost there! Just when I wasn’t sure I could take any more of this, I rounded a bend and saw my goal within reach!

I clambered my way up (there are lots of ways you could do this once you get to the top, honestly). And there I was, standing at the top of Texas.

It was really cold and windy up there. Bring a jacket. But the view is incredible. You can see in all directions to the desert below. It is stunning. I was so exhausted that I leaned against the marker (I’m such a jerk) and ate a snack and just sat for a while. On a less windy day, it would be really pleasant.

There’s not a ton of room up there. I’d say there were maybe 10 other folks who came up after I did (there was no one there when I summited). Don’t forget to sign the register at the marker (it’s in a green container).

When I had my fill of the summit, I headed down. I made good time through the first mile and a half. And then my knees started to hate me. I legitimately thought I was going to blow out a ligament at one point (I stepped off a rock a little funny). The last half of the hike was an arduous exercise for me. By the time I got to the switchbacks past the windy notch (it was not windy anymore, thankfully), I just wanted off the mountain. I picked my way slowly down (cliffs! Ack!) and eventually I was mercifully off the mountain. It was a seven-hour-plus ordeal for me (not counting the time I spent chillin’ at the top, literally and figuratively). If you’re fit, you could probably do it in half the time. But like I said, there are no prizes for being fast.

I originally intended to spend a third night in camp, but decided to hightail it back to El Paso instead. This is where the flexible payment system comes in handy. So I had paid only for two days. Checkout is technically at noon (it was well past noon of course when I got down) but since it’s first-come, first-served, people seem to be going in and out at all hours. Nevertheless, I packed camp as quickly as I could — I didn’t even bother to fold anything properly, I figured I could do it later — and hit the highway to El Paso right as the sun set. Driving west is a pain at sunset because the sun is a giant orb and your sun shade isn’t long enough to block it. But I needed a shower and my exhausted body needed a real bed. I also consoled myself with Whataburger, so it was all good. I was still proud to have stood at the top of Texas.

Day 4: White Sands

After three rather grueling days, I was glad to come to something a little more chill. White Sands has always been a place I wanted to go (and in fact, my brother and I almost went a year before). Some pristine white dunes would be good for the soul, no?

I checked out of a Motel 6 in El Paso — I chose one on the west side of town since that’s where I was going to catch the freeway — and headed back into New Mexico. I was aiming to get to White Sands around 1pm or so.

White Sands is an easy jaunt from El Paso, a little less than an hour and a half. There’s some neat stuff along the way, like the Space Mural Museum outside of Las Cruces (which you can see from the freeway) and lots of pull offs with (fake) missiles and informational plaques and whatnot because the missile testing range and the military installation of the same name are right there. Alamogordo has a pretty awesome space museum too, from what I heard. Unfortunately, all the museums were closed when I was in town. But the area has a lot of interesting history, both space and military related, so if you’re a buff of either topic, you should visit.

The National Park is off U.S. 70, past all the military installations. If you go to the park website, they do warn that the highway can be closed if missile testing is happening. That wasn’t happening when I was there, thankfully.

The neat thing about White Sands is that it comes up on you all of a sudden. You go to the Visitor Center and it’s desert scrub everywhere. You pay your fee — there is a drive up booth here — and you go up the road and then suddenly, the desert scrub turns to majestic white dunes.

It’s spectacular. And yes, you can sled down the dunes. You can buy a sled at the visitor center or bring your own. I didn’t feel like forking over the cash, so I did not sled. However, some kind soul had left a couple of sleds leaning against the fence at a parking area in the dune field, so I did “borrow” a sled and go down a hill. It’s fun but a lot harder than you think to get momentum.

The park itself isn’t super large. It’s centered mostly around the Dunes Drive, a loop that gets you into the heart of the dune field. There are a few trails and pullouts and a few picnic areas. The road is partly paved, but the unpaved area is hard-packed dirt so it’s not hard to drive on (unless it’s raining of course).

The two main trails here are Alkali Flat (about 5 miles) and the Backcountry Camping Trail (about 2 miles). Keep in mind that if you do any hiking here, you’re going to walk up sand dunes. And some of them are quite tall. And walking in sand is sometimes … not so great.

But you can’t beat the scenery.

I started at Alkali Flat, not intending to walk the entire trail, but wanting to find some untouched dunes to photograph.

I then headed to the Yucca picnic area to relax, eat some freeze dried ice cream (it was actually delicious). My goal was to be in the park long enough for sunset, and to be somewhere on the Backcountry Camping Trail.

I did make my way to the Backcountry Camping Trail eventually with a little more than an hour and a half until sunset. The trail is a bit hilly (dune-y?) but nothing too strenuous. You get to be in the middle of the dunes. The farther out you go, the fewer people you see. It would be a really neat place to camp. (Camping was not allowed when I went because of COVID.) I would 1,000 percent come back here and camp in the dunes.

I eventually found a spot I liked and waited for sunset. One thing I forgot: As soon as the sun starts to dip, it gets cold fast in the desert. I wished I had brought gloves at one point. But sunset was very much worth it.

One thing to think about if you are there in the winter: The park closes at 6pm. Sunset is usually around 5 or so. And depending on how far you are, you have to figure out if you have enough time to hike back to your car and then drive out before the gates close. Oh, and did I mention it gets dark quickly? (I had a headlamp just in case.)

I did manage to get back with plenty of time to spare, but it did involve a lot of fast walking (in sand!) and running down some dunes. So just be prepared.

I headed to Alamogordo for the night. It was an easy drive. It was nice to be able to shake out all the sand from my sandals.

And that was pretty much it. I went back to El Paso the next morning and wrapped up the adventure. I definitely recommend this trio of parks — there’s a lot of neat stuff out here. I’d definitely love to come back when parks are in full operation and I can do some ranger-led tours at Carlsbad Caverns and I’d definitely camp at White Sands.

And now I can say I stood at the top of a state!