Koh Lipe - The Tropical Island Paradise of Southern Thailand
So southern that it’s almost in Malaysia, Koh Lipe sits off the western coast of Thailand. Located within the beautiful national park of Tarutao and walkable from one side to the other in well under half an hour, this pint sized little island boasts beautiful white sand beaches, turquoise waters as well as plenty of hostels, bars, restaurants and other island activities!
Koh Lipe is not as famous as its more northern brethren of Koh Samui, Koh Lanta or Koh Phi Phi. Its southerly position and small size lend it a more sleepy, laid back atmosphere, and whilst it doesn’t attract quite the crowds of the more famous Thai islands, Koh Lipe has a charm all of its own.
We originally booked for three nights but when we spoke to fellow travellers on our first day they warned us that Koh Lipe is a vortex. A whirlpool that traps you in and makes it very hard to leave. Still we thought, what harm could it do, so we extended our stay for just one more night… Anyway, 11 days later we managed to tear ourselves away from this gorgeous little island.
What kept us there, why did we like it so much? As it’s such a small island what is there to do? Read on to find out why Koh Lipe should be high on your list of Thai islands to visit!
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Contents:
The best beaches on Koh Lipe
What to do on Koh Lipe?
Eating and drinking on Koh Lipe
Koh Lipe - the essential information
Should we leave? …. Nah!
How to get to Koh Lipe?
As we’ve previously mentioned, Koh Lipe is in the south of Thailand, like really south, like so south that one of its closest neighbours is the Malaysian tax free haven of Langkawi.
We were travelling in from south Thailand’s largest city, Hat Yai . We had arranged a transfer through our accommodation. A minibus would pick us up from our hostel, take us to Pak Bara pier in the province of Satun, and there we would transfer to a speedboat that would take us across the Andaman Sea to Koh Lipe. If you didn’t book through your accommodation or wanted to make your own way there, you could buy the ferry ticket directly from Pak Bara pier. Our package including the mini bus to the pier and the speedboat transfer cost us 800 baht each (£17.45 or $21.59).
If you want to book directly you could use 12GO, we have done this for other crossings and it is a handy way to combine buses and ferries. Click here to book your tickets!
Upon arrival at Pak Bara pier there is the usual South East Asian rigmarole of changing paper tickets for stickers, exchanging more stickers for plastic boarding cards and finding out that we needed to buy the entrance fee for the national park and also a separate pier fee - more on this later in the tips section!
Inside the ferry terminal, rows of nearly identical check in desks stretch along the back wall next to an extremely overpriced cafe. After check in, it was a smooth transfer onto the speedboat. Our luggage was taken by the crew and stowed on board before we were called one ticket at a time onto the boat.
Once underway the boat sped off across the ridiculously blue water. It stopped for twenty minutes on Koh Tarutao, an island within the national park, where we could either get off the boat or stay on for the short stop. After another brief stop while we waited for the pier to become free we arrived on the white sanded shores of Koh Lipe. Jumping off the boat onto a blue floating pier, our bags were unloaded and we headed off into the island. All in all, our trip from our hostel in Hat Yai to Pattaya beach in Koh Lipe had taken about 4 hours.
So blue!
You can get to Koh Lipe from any of the West Thai islands such as Phuket, Koh Lanta, Koh Mook by speed boat transfer. You can book tickets on the islands through a tour operator or in advance via 12Go.
If you’re travelling to Koh Lipe from Bangkok, the quickest way to get to Koh Lipe would be to book an internal flight to either Trang or Hat Yai airports. From there you will need to book a transfer to the ferry port. Again if you want to book in advance you can use 12Go.
Being so close to Malaysia you can actually get the ferry directly across from Langkawi island and it only takes an hour and a half. Book tickets here. If you’re coming from Malaysia from land, check out our articles on crossing the Thai / Malaysian border and staying in the southern city of Hat Yai.
When to visit Koh Lipe?
Koh Lipe’s high season runs from mid to late October through to the end of April. During this time you should be able to enjoy warm sunny days (without being too scorching) with minimal rainfall.
During the low season accommodation will be much cheaper and although it will rain, it should be confined to a few hours a day. Just be aware that Walking Street may not be as busy and some businesses may close for the season. Also the powerboats between the western islands will sometimes shut down in the low season, and the sea will be rougher with less visibility for snorkelling and diving.
Where did we stay on Koh Lipe?
We had booked ourselves into Sang Chan hostel, a small hostel just off of Koh Lipe’s main road - Walking Street.
We bought a basic private fan room (posh packers, we know) with en-suite but no air conditioning. Our private room was what an estate agent would call cosy, maybe even bijou. It was comfy, and the size was perfect for our needs.
Sang Chan hostel had free tea, coffee and water as well as a little communal space and two extremely cute cats!
We also managed to test out one of the downstairs dormitories, as for one of the nights where we tried to extend our stay, our private room had already been booked. The dorm rooms at Sang Chan hostel were very comfy, with good lockers, personal lights and power sockets and a privacy curtain. The room we stayed in had 8 beds (4 bunk beds).
We paid 700 baht per night for the private room (£15.27 or $18.89) and 300 baht each (£6.54 or $8.10) for a bed in the dorm.
There are lots of hostels and low cost guesthouses on offer all over the island as well as beachfront bamboo huts or more luxurious resorts.
Our advice would be to look for accommodation within the Walking Street or Sunrise beach areas of the island as these are right in the midst of all of the restaurants and bars. Check out the map below for all your accommodation choices:
The best beaches on Koh Lipe
This is probably why you’re here, it was certainly why we were. The beaches of Koh Lipe are simply stunning, literal island paradises. When you think of Thai islands there’s a specific image that comes to mind. Crystal clear, near impossibly turquoise waters, lapping up against a white sanded beach under palm trees beneath the blazing sun. Maybe there’s a long tail boat? Koh Lipe fulfilled all these stereotypes, honestly in any direction you looked it could have been a postcard.
Koh Lipe is not a large island but has three main beaches as well as a smattering of “secret” beaches. Here’s our guide to which beaches to go to and when to go to them.
Pattaya Beach
This is the main beach of Koh Lipe and by far the most popular.
Odds on chance, that if you’re on Koh Lipe already, you would have arrived via this beach. Lined with resorts, beach bars, scuba diving shops and restaurants, Pattaya beach is busy whatever time of the day. During the day the beach is popular with sunbathers, snorkellers and those enjoying a beachside beer. Come evening time, the beach bars light up with fire-shows and bonfires and the resort restaurants spill out onto the sand.
Sunset Beach
The furthest beach from Walking Street and the heart of the island, Sunset beach is so called because guess what… it gets the best view of sunset! When we say it’s the furthest away, it’s still only a fifteen to twenty minute walk away. The walk is quite interesting as it winds up and around the greener central part of the island and passes by several abandoned and decaying resorts (as we’ve mentioned before in our Sri Lanka articles, we both like a ruin).
All that’s left are the concrete foundations
Walking through woodland, dodging many millipedes and winding past the Hantalay Buddhist temple - สำนักสงฆ์หาญทะเล you’ll eventually reach the Marine Fishery Management buildings. Head through the gates and walk down past the buildings and you’ll find yourself on the beach.
The instant advantage of this beach being slightly further away is that it remains quieter for most of the day, so it’s always easy to find a spot to throw down your towel. Come sunset the beach population swells with everyone sitting down on the small floating jetty to watch the sun go down. The beach lives up to its name and sharing a sunset here, floating in the ocean, surrounded by your fellow travellers is a memory we will cherish. Be sure to pack a beer for sunset!
There is also a restaurant and bar at the end of the beach.
If you want to know the best bars for a drink on Koh Lipe, check out our article here.
Sunrise Beach
Unsurprisingly Sunrise Beach faces the rising sun in the morning. We braved an early morning alarm call to watch the sun rise and it really didn’t disappoint.
Sunrise Beach itself is much longer than Sunset Beach and curves up and around a peninsula that overlooks the much larger island of Koh Adang. Like the other beaches of Koh Lipe, Sunrise Beach is blessed with powder white sand and clear waters teeming with small fish. Sunrise Beach is popular at all times of day and quickly became our go to beach. Its size meant it was never too crowded and there were designated swimming areas where the long tail boats didn’t intrude. As the day wore on, there were places where you could find shade under the palm trees without having to buy a drink from one of the local beach bars. Also if you head around the peninsula you can still catch a great sunset even if it’s a little more obscured than that from Sunset Beach.
Sunrise Beach is also home to lots of restaurants and beach bars including Zodiac, perhaps Koh Lipe’s largest and most popular beach bar.
What To Do on Koh Lipe?
In case you hadn’t guessed from the above paragraph, the number one thing to do in Koh Lipe is to stretch out in the sand and enjoy its glorious beaches. Once you’ve absorbed all the vitamin D you could want, there are also many other things you can do on this beautiful island.
Kayaking on Koh Lipe
Kayaks are available to rent from every beach on the island. We recommend hiring kayaks from Pattaya Beach. We hired kayaks from a wooden shack next to a dive school near the far end of the beach (walking away from the main jetty/Walking Street). 200 baht (£4.36 or $5.40) got us a two person kayak (John thinks this is called a Kiwi) and life jackets for an hour. The man running the rental assured us that he wouldn’t be too bothered if we returned the kayak a little late so we could relax and enjoy our sea exploration. The kayak rental price seemed to be fixed, as many things were, across the island.
It’s possible to circumnavigate the island in a kayak in a couple of hours, but we however had our sights set a little lower. We set off from Pattaya Beach and kayaked to the right. Around the first peninsula is a lovely beach that appears to be owned by a resort. It didn’t seem to be accessible other than via the sea or through the resort. We paddled past and continued around the headland. All along the rocky outcrops are excellent snorkelling spots and we passed by many a flipper clad frogman. We were very tempted to join them but could not see how we would re-enter the canoe without an embarrassing capsizing incident.
As we continued further round the island, the first of the “secret” beaches came into view. The beach was so “secret” that there were already kayaks on shore and a good size group taking selfies. We came onto shore and joined in with the selfie shooting, before pushing back off to sea.
We continued round and the next cove held what we had been looking for. A tiny deserted beach, surrounded by high cliffs and rocks. Accessible only by sea, this was what we had hoped to find. We dragged our canoe onto the tiny beach and ran back into the crystal clear sea. Small fish swarmed around our feet seemingly unbothered by our presence. This was the kind of island experience we had pictured when backpacking the Thai islands. We can’t recommend kayaking here enough.
Snorkelling on Koh Lipe
Koh Lipe is, as mentioned, located within the boundaries of Tarutao national marine park. This means that the waters off of the island are teaming with marine life and coral. Snorkelling in Koh Lipe is an absolute must!
All the way along Walking Street are tour operators offering a menu of different snorkelling trips. The snorkelling trips differ from each other in length, snorkelling spots and islands visited. There are also options of doing sunset trips, or longer distance trips via a speedboat.
We, being the cheapskate backpackers that we are, went up and down the strip to find the best deal. We booked a trip with Koh Lipe Star Travel, located on the Walking Street opposite the Pooh bar. We chose option ‘A’ from the snorkelling menu as it seemed to have less travel time and more time snorkelling. The trip cost us 500 baht per person (£10.91 or $13.50) and would visit 4 snorkelling spots and 2 beaches. This price would also include our lunch as well as fruit and water on board the longtail boat.
Our snorkelling trip was everything we could have wanted it to be.
We found Nemo (many Nemo’s actually) as well as seeing corals, an octopus, brightly coloured parrot fish, a well camouflaged stone fish and a kaleidoscope of other tropical fish. We made a stop on the rocky black stone beach of Ko Hin Ngam and had our lunch on the white sands of Ko Ra Wi. The lunch was a very tasty Pad Krapow with an extra hard-boiled egg.
This trip was far more than we were expecting, and no trip to the island of Koh Lipe should be without a snorkelling expedition.
It's worth pointing out that despite the variety of tour operators, the actual trips all seem to follow the same itineraries. We recommend scouting out the best price as there’s not going to be a great deal of difference between trip ‘A’ from two different shops. There were people doing the same trip as us who had paid more than double what we did.
Also worth mentioning that before you depart on your snorkelling trip, please ensure you have a valid ticket to enter Tarutao National Park - again see our tips section later.
If you’re planning a holiday and want to book a snorkelling trip in advance, check out these trips on Get Your Guide:
Ko Ra Wi wasn’t a bad place for a picnic lunch!
Koh Lipe - What We Didn’t Do
Diving on Koh Lipe
Koh Lipe is famous for its incredible dive sites. We are not divers ourselves, so take all of our information here with a pinch of salt but we met some absolute lovely dive instructors who were so passionate about it and were extremely convincing as to the delights of diving off the island of Koh Lipe.
There are dive shops all along Walking Street and Pattaya Beach, serving all skill levels from absolute beginners to fully qualified PADI divers.
Koh Adang
Visible from most of the northern side of the island, Koh Adang rises like a green volcano from the Adaman sea. Koh Adang dwarfs little Koh Lipe in size, but is much more sparsely populated with only one resort and a couple of campsites on the island. There is a hike to a viewpoint as well as the promise of white sandy beaches all to yourself. We didn’t take the boat taxi across as we were on a budget and on the days we were tempted by it, the weather was quite hazy.
A longtail boat to Koh Adang runs at 200 baht per person per journey (£4.36 or $5.40). This is worth thinking about as it would mean for two people to go there and back would cost 800 baht (£17.45 or $21.59) which is nearly as much as a whole day's snorkelling! We’re sure the views would have been incredible but as we were on a budget we opted out this time.
This list might not seem that long for 11 days, but the simple loop of getting up, swimming, reading on a beach, finding a bar, getting stuck in said bar and stumbling to bed kept us happily occupied for quite some time on this picture perfect island. There’s definitely more to the island than we found, if you’ve got any recommendations please leave a comment as we’re sure to return to Koh Lipe in the future!
To have a look or prebook some other island activities check out Get Your Guide here.
Eating and Drinking on Koh Lipe
Walking Street
At the heart of the island of Koh Lipe lies Walking Street. This is the main tourist hub for the whole island. You can’t avoid it and you shouldn’t! Home to most of the bars, restaurants, cafes and shops of the island, Walking Street will cater for any of your needs.
There are a wealth of shops to satiate your inner Carrie. Ellie bought a lovely dress that has (so far) not fallen apart. There are also tattoo parlours, diving shops and the increasingly common cannabis emporiums. Also there are plenty of pharmacies and two 7-11’s, although why an island this small needs 2 is beyond us.
In terms of food you are well catered for on Walking Street; pasta to tapas, Indian naan to Pad Thai there is a restaurant on this street for everyone's taste. Dining on Thai islands is always more expensive than its mainland counterparts, and can often pander too heavily to the perceived tastes of the Western palate. With this in mind, we can recommend the following places to eat:
Papaya Mom - ปาปาย่ามัม เกาะหลีเป๊ะ
This large, primely located restaurant is popular with both Western and Thai tourists (always a good sign). Serving all manner of Thai noodles, fried rice and curries alongside an impressive selection of fresh fish and shellfish ready for the grill. Being backpackers we can’t comment on the quality of the lobster, but the seafood Pad Kee Mao and Yellow Curry fried rice were delicious. The seafood Pad Kee Mao was generously portioned and overflowing with the ocean's bounty. Crab meat jostled for space with prawns, cuttlefish and octopus amongst fragrant and delicately flavoured noodles. The Yellow curry rice was rich and satisfying with tender chicken and a deep curried flavour providing counterpoint to the delicate seafood dish. The two together cost us 220 baht (£4.80 or $5.94).
Wonton Soup Stall - outside Patt market (แพท มาร์เก็ต)
Outside the Patt supermarket and opposite the A Central shopping plaza lies our top budget recommendation. This stall served wonton noodles with red pork and was cheap, filling and absolutely delicious. This is one of our top cheap eats on the island. For more budget tips, click here.
Dinner for two cost us 160 baht (£3.49 or $4.32).
Wangcha-Aon & Thai food (วังชะโอน แอนด์ ไทยฟู้ด)
A lunchtime staple, this unassuming restaurant served what we came to believe to be the best beef noodle soup on the island (we tried quite a few). The bowl of noodles was topped with tender beef, delightfully textured beef balls as well as crunchy bean sprouts, spring onions, aromatic herbs and deep fried shallots. The broth itself was deep, complex and comforting, all the things a bowl of beef noodles should be. The table came complete with the usual Thai cruet to allow you to adjust the salty, sweet or sour flavours to your preference. A bowl of this excellent beef noodle soup will set you back 100 baht (£2.18 or $2.70).
We also ate quite a few dinners at this restaurant. We can heartily recommend their Pad Krapow. Often in Thailand when asked if you would like it spicy, your answer is effectively ignored and the dish will be prepared in a Farang friendly manner. This was not the case here. The Pad Krapow was spicy, heavily seasoned and utterly delicious. With crunchy snake beans and near caramelised minced chicken, just make sure to ask for the gloriously runny fried egg on top. One plate of Pad Krapow (including a 10 baht egg) cost 90 baht (£1.96 or $2.43).
Bombay Indian (ร้านอาหารอินเดียบอมเบย์)
It seems strange to recommend an Indian restaurant when in Thailand, but what can we say, we’re British, and the curry cravings can often get too much. Happily for us, Koh Lipe has the excellent Bombay Indian to quench our curry cravings.
We ate lunch and dinner here and were blown away both times. For the lunch we had naan breads and a Makhani Dal and for dinner we had the same but accompanied by a Butter Chicken. The Makhani Dal was the stand out both times. A massive copper coloured goblet appeared on our table with a swirl of yoghurt crowning the deep, dark colour of the lentil stew. Spicy, yet supremely comforting, this dal was the perfect saucy dipper for the crispy delicious tandoor baked naan bread. The butter chicken was also superb, with none of the artificial sweetness or greasy overload often found in this dish elsewhere.
The two curries together were the perfect synergy of hot and rich, creamy and fragrant and with the naan bread (one garlic, one plain) made for the perfect meal. Despite the incongruity of ordering an Indian curry in Thailand, this was one of our favourite meals on Koh Lipe.
Two curries, two naan breads, two large beers and a large water cost us 590 baht (£12.87 or $15.92).
Bloom Cafe
For those after a sophisticated caffeine fix in pretty surroundings, you can’t go wrong with a coffee from Bloom Cafe. Located in the heart of Walking Street and sitting under the hostel of the same name, Bloom cafe serves up every variety of hot and cold coffee you can ask for, along with a selection of toasties and other Western comfort foods. The coffee here was fantastic (although a little pricey, but you are paying for the location).
One iced latte cost 110 baht (£2.40 or $2.97).
As you can maybe tell if you’ve read our other articles, Koh Lipe is quite pricey for food and drink. This is a common theme across the Thai islands where ingredients have to arrive by boat. We have some budget recommendations on where to eat to maximise your money to read all about our cheaper choices, click here.
Leaving Koh Lipe - where to go next?
Leaving Koh Lipe is hard. Breaking the comforting cycle of beaches, blissful sunsets and sublime snorkelling is very difficult. But, as with any island story, there comes a time to leave.
Booking onward travel from Koh Lipe is super simple. There are countless travel agents up and down Walking Street offering transfers to pretty much anywhere in Thailand or if you want to book in advance, you could just use 12Go . There are speed boats that will get you north to Koh Lanta, Phi Phi, Phuket or any of the western islands as well as transfers across the mainland to Hat Yai, Krabi, Surat Thani and beyond.
We elected for a speedboat to Koh Mook but that is another story.
Koh Lipe - the essential information
National Park fee
Tarutao Marine National Park Fee costs 200 baht per person and lasts for 5 days. You will need to pay this entrance fee to get to Koh Lipe (in addition to any ferry and pier costs). This is worth remembering as you will also need the permit to go snorkelling and as we have said, the island is a vortex and you will probably wind up staying longer than you initially expected.
Pak Bara Pier fee
Pak Bara Pier Fee costs 20 baht per person and is payable upon arrival at the pier. This cost is also in addition to your ferry ticket and marine national park fee. We’re only pointing this out as it was very confusing at the pier where we started getting asked for more money.
Taxis and island prices
Taxis and the island economy - the taxi price across Koh Lipe is fixed at 100 baht per journey. It doesn’t matter how short or how long (on an island so small there is a limit as to how long they can be) the cost is the same. The taxis on Koh Lipe are of the motorbike with sidecar variety and can be hailed just off Walking Street and behind the main arrival pier.
You will find across the island that certain prices are pretty much fixed, small beers at a 100 baht are a good example of this. There are certain places that are a little cheaper, read more about places to drink on Koh Lipe here.
Arriving on Koh Lipe
Arrival tip - you will be dropped off at the arrival pier of Pattaya beach. You will immediately be inundated with taxi offers all for 100 baht. If you’re staying on or near Walking Street, you really don’t need this. There’s a little trick/illusion as the road behind the arrival pier is frequently flooded which encourages you to use a taxi. You do not need to go this way, just turn back on to the beach and walk a short way up to come to the entrance of Walking Street.
Other tips for Koh Lipe
Maps.me - as is becoming a theme in Thailand, Maps.me is frequently much more detailed and useful than Google maps. We recommend downloading the area for offline use as we found many more paths and trails on Maps.me than are shown on Google maps.
ATMS - there are ATMS on the island but they do frequently run out of cash and will charge you the standard fees for withdrawals like the rest of Thailand.
There are pharmacies and a clinic on the island, we hope you don’t need either!
Koh Lipe - final thoughts
Koh Lipe is beautiful. A tiny, walkable tropical retreat with every amenity and comfort a traveller could need. Its position so far south means it's not quite as popular or well known as Thailand’s other more northerly islands and this is to its advantage. The island at the moment has not been entirely sold off to resorts, but this may be changing in the future. There is a large construction site on Sunrise beach and there were signs saying large parcels of land had been given over to developers. At the moment Koh Lipe is still a charming island full of independent shops and businesses, with most beaches open to all. Go now before its private and a mimicry of other resort filled islands!
Thank you for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
If you want to know how to live cheaply on Koh Lipe, check out our budget backpacking guide to the island here!
For our guide to the bars of Koh Lipe click here!
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