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We're not big on New Year's resolutions, but you know what? January is a darn good time to bone up on your techniques, from braising to pan roasting. For the next two weeks, we'll be showing you how.
For years, you couldn't go to a four-star restaurant without getting a forkful of mache. Then there was a love affair with arugula. And we still have feelings for kale. But these days, the salads we really can't resist don't even have the very thing that used to define salads: the greens. Like many of the country's most inventive chefs, we're replacing them with other, less obvious vegetables (and nuts and herbs and seeds). Mandoline in hand, we're shaving sturdy produce into ribbons and coins, adding outside-the-salad-bar complements, and dressing them lightly in simple vinaigrettes. The results are delicate yet packed with bite--and, without question, far more dynamic than any bowl of romaine and Ranch could ever be.
Carrot Salad with Yogurt and Coriander (click for recipe)
"Salads are all about texture. You want different experiences--shaved carrots, crunchy nuts, refreshing radishes--with every bite." --Evan Rich, Co-Chef, Rich Table, San Francisco
Mushroom and Watercress Salad with Breadcrumbs (click for recipe) ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT: MANDOLINE
We're forever slicing with the Benriner mandoline. It's lightweight and small, and doesn't require assembly or elaborate instruction manuals.
Benriner mandoline slicer, $65; surlatable.com
Celery Salad with Celery Root and Horseradish (click for recipe)
"It may be obvious, but buy seasonal. The point of using raw vegetables is to capture that 'alive' flavor. If your ingredients are really fresh, they'll be brighter, greener, sweeter." --Renee Erickson, Chef, The Whale Wins, Seattle
Golden Beet and Jicama Salad with Creme Fraiche (click for recipe) ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT: SANTOKU KNIFE
The dimples on this style of knife prevent food from sticking for faster cutting, and its long, flush-to-surface blade makes for precise slices.
Wusthof IKON Santoku 7", $110; cutleryandmore.com
KEY STEPS: HOW TO SLICE LIKE A PRO
When working with firm, raw vegetables, it's good to master two ways to cut them. (Think about it--a salad of carrot ribbons and match-sticks is delicate and delicious; one of chunks is about as unappealing as rabbit food.) Mix shapes for visual appeal and contrasting textures.
MANDOLINE
This is the best (and quickest) way to get thin, even slices. First, adjust the blade to desired thickness. Holding the handle toward you, ground the opposite end on a cutting board. Using a hand guard or kitchen towel, carefully and repeatedly slide the produce down the blade. (If you'd like more control, ditch the guard, but keep your palm flat and fingers clear. When the produce is too small to hold, a guard or towel is a must.)
JULIENNE
A precise cut like a julienne, which produces ultrathin matchsticks, is easy when you start with a mandoline. Adjust the blade to 1/8" thick and slice vegetables using the method above. Stack up a few slices to make a pile about 1" high. Using a knife, square off the edges (skip this step if you don't mind a few imperfect pieces). Using a santoku or chef's knife, slice vegetables lengthwise into skinny matchsticks.
Balsamic Is Not King--And Other Truths About Vinaigrette
Three rules for dressing a 2013 saladRETHINK YOUR VINEGAR
The once-ubiquitous balsamic is being replaced by lighter, subtler acids. "The point of acid is to highlight the ingredients you're using, not to dominate the flavor," say Terrence Gallivan and Seth Siegel-Gardner of the Pass and Provisions in Houston. That's why they gravitate toward
Sherry vinegar, a mellow, well-balanced vinegar that is a good match for winter vegetables. Another chef favorite:
Champagne vinegar. Strongly acidic but neutral in flavor, it adds sharpness to a dish without overwhelming it. (White wine vinegar is a great substitute.) But, the acid we really can't live without is
lemon juice. Squeeze it over vegetables lightly dressed in olive oil for a clean finish.
EASY ON THE OIL
We tend to like vinaigrettes that are brighter than those that use the classic 3:1 ratio of oil to vinegar. "Acid makes you want to come back for another bite," says Chris Pandel of Chicago's The Bristol. We more often
use ratios of 2:1. But even that's just a guideline: champagne vinegar is more acidic than Sherry vinegar, which is more acidic than lemon juice. Start at 1:1, then gradually add oil to taste.
HANDS, NOT TONGS
Tongs or heavy salad spoons can pierce delicate salads, so
use your hands to gently toss the ingredients. Bonus: It's the best way to tell if the salad is over- or under-dressed.
Lose The Leaves
The key to shaved vegetable salads isn't using hard-to-find ingredients or tossing together all the produce in the fridge. It's about combining creative components that balance each other. Think tough with tender, earthy with sweet, mild with sharp. To do it at home, follow the recipes on these pages, or improvise using the building blocks below as guidelines:LAY THE FOUNDATION: Thinly slice
one or two crisp, hardy vegetables as the salad's central ingredients. you'll want to use roughly two pounds of produce to make a salad for six people.
From left:
FENNEL: you won't find a better partner for a citrusy dressing. A handful of olives adds a nice, salty hit.
CUCUMBER: Mild and refreshing cucumber salads are a great foil for heavy roasts. Try cutting them in a mix of ribbons, coins, and wedges for a restaurant look.
CELERY: When it's crunch you're after, reach for celery. It's tricky to slice on a mandoline, so cut it on the bias and save the leaves (see below).
BEET: Beautiful when shaved into coins, its earthy flavor is a good match for Sherry vinegar.
RADISH: We love the bite radishes add, but they can be overwhelming as a main ingredient. Tamer carrots complement them well.
CELERY ROOT: Try it with lemon juice or just a little horseradish, or other ingredients that won't dominate its subtle flavor.
GIVE IT DIMENSION: The right secondary ingredient makes these salads pop. Add
smaller quantities of one to two items that lend character. Look for crunch, salt, or a sweet hit--and think beyond the standard salad bar toppings.
COARSE BREADCRUMBS: You know the pleasure of eating a crunchy, salty crouton? Switch to coarse homemade breadcrumbs and you'll get that in every bite.
APPLE: Julienne apple or pear to give acidic salads a little sweetness. goes well with fennel or celery.
CUMIN SEEDS: Toast briefly in a skillet over medium heat to release their flavor and fragrance.
RED ONION: Thin slices of onion (too thick and it'll be the only thing you taste) add pleasant heat and sharpness. Especially good with mellow ingredients like celery or cucumber.
PARMESAN: To get that salty, umami layer you won't get from a plate of produce, add shards of Parmesan.
PEPITAS: We're hooked on snappy pepitas (pumpkin seeds). Toast shelled seeds in a little oil over medium-high heat; they'll add just the right amount of crunch.
FINISH FRESH: For a bright element, use
lots of fresh herbs or their leafy cousins
PARSLEY: We dare you to find a salad that flat-leaf parsley (leaves whole, stems removed!) wouldn't improve. Or sub in other fresh, tender herbs if you've got them.
CELERY LEAVES: Never throw away your celery leaves. Use them to add delicate flavor to salads that feature celery--or even to ones that don't.
WATERCRESS: It may look like a green, but because of its peppery edge, we like to use it in small quantities as a flavor accent. Great with beets or mushrooms.