In the shadow of a fairytale castle, at elevations up to 1,000 meters above sea level, Helmut and Hedwig Dolde grow Silvaner, Pinots (Noir and Blanc), Riesling and Weißburgunder with integrity and care, channeling some of the most exciting terroirs we have seen for years: Weiße Jura (aka marne blanche) and some small plots of volcanic soils in and around the villages of Linsenhofen and Neuffen (that takes its name from the imposing castle that dominates the area), and Braune Jura soils on the promising and yet depressingly underutilized slopes around nearby Metzingen.

They also make the famed Da steppt der Bär Pet’Nat, a set of insane ciders (apple and black pear), and the purest wild fruit distillates we have ever experienced (Helmut’s uncle is a dab hand with a still) — all from a domaine little larger than your average postage stamp.

The region may be known locally of the Swabian Jura, but tasting in the Dolde cellar puts us more in mind of the ​Sound of Music.​ These delicious drinks epitomize what “mountain wines” mean for us. Pure as a stream in a high meadow, they invigorate, refresh, and keep us coming back for more.

HELMUT DOLDE

Country: Germany

Region: Swabia

Sub-region or Appellation: Württemberg

Winemakers: Helmut Dolde, Hedwig Dolde

Viticulture: Uncertified by any authority, Helmut Dolde is guided by his dedication to caring for the wild, alpine terroir he wants to preserve for future generations. Helmut eschews the organic movement—because it allows the use of copper sulfates—and focuses instead on leaving the soil in a better condition than he found it. A former scientist, he’s constantly experimenting with synthetics that do less harm and are more biodegradable than treatments allowed under certain organic certifications.

Terroir: Mainly Jurassic (white and brown marl over sand and limestone) plus a small amount of volcanic soils

Size: < 2 ha

Website: doldewein.de
Instagram: @doldewein

HELMUT DOLDE :: Da steppt der Bär Pet’nat

“Da steppt der Bär” translates to the “bear is dancing” and if you didn’t know what that means, now you do: there will be a good party. A Super Glou exclusive inspired by our love of Helmut’s Silvaner, this internet-famous fizz also sees a touch of Weissburgunder. Exuberant, playful and a harbinger of fun times to come.

Vintage: 2021
Grapes: 90% Silvaner, 10% Weissburgunder
Style: Sparkling Wine
ABV: 12.5%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Württemberg
Viticulture: Uncertified by any authority, Helmut Dolde is guided by his dedication to caring for the wild, alpine terroir he wants to preserve for future generations. Helmut eschews the organic movement—because it allows the use of copper sulfates—and focuses instead on leaving the soil in a better condition than he found it. A former scientist, he’s constantly experimenting with synthetics that do less harm and are more biodegradable than treatments allowed under certain organic certifications.
Age of Vines: 15 year old
Soils: Calcareous marl with pebbles of limestone and clay (known in Burgundy as marne blanche) formed by corals and marine life that thrived in the sea toward the end of the Jurassic period.
Elevation: 1,000 feet
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Fermented wholecluster with indigenous yeast in stainless steel.

HELMUT DOLDE :: Neuffener Riesling

Helmut’s magic touch extends to Riesling, which he harnesses here in its most lush and saline form. The freshness of marne blanche marries with the body and minerality of brown marl to create a wine that screams for marine life. A supremely food friendly wine that is begging for—if not a plateau de fruits de mer—at the very least, an oyster.

Vintage: 2020
Grapes: Riesling
Style: White Wine
ABV: 12%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Württemberg
Viticulture: Uncertified by any authority, Helmut Dolde is guided by his dedication to caring for the wild, alpine terroir he wants to preserve for future generations. Helmut eschews the organic movement—because it allows the use of copper sulfates—and focuses instead on leaving the soil in a better condition than he found it. A former scientist, he’s constantly experimenting with synthetics that do less harm and are more biodegradable than treatments allowed under certain organic certifications.
Age of Vines: 15 years old
Soils: Calcareous marl with pebbles of limestone and clay (known in Burgundy as marne blanche) formed by corals and marine life that thrived in the sea toward the end of the Jurassic period.
Elevation: 700 feet
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Fermented in stainless steel (90%) and used barrels (10%)
Aging: Aged 6 months on lees in steel tanks
Fining or Filtering: None

HELMUT DOLDE :: Schwarze Birne Black Pear Cider

As if his environs weren’t fairytale enough, Helmut is lucky to lay claim to an ancient stand of black pear trees. The Schwarze Birne is a random seedling of unknown origin, which was historically used to grow an excellent cider pear on the northern edge of the Swabian Jura. However, there is no pear variety with the same name in the modern register. From the shape of the tree top, the wood and buds, the shape comes closest to resembling a present-day pear but is still quite different, more stout than long. The juice is tart, characterized by a high sugar content and delicate tannins. The color turns dark olive to gray-green when ripe, hence the name: black pear. 

There are just a dozen trees left on the northernmost edge of the Swabian Alps, all over a hundred years old. Over the centuries, the variety lost relevance due to the decline in domestic cider production and the disappearance of traditional orchards. In modern times, Helmut is their steward. When the ripe pears fall from the trees during harvest season — the end of October/beginning of November — he picks them by hand to see if there are enough to produce a cider that vintage (these pears are from 2015). He starts by preparing a natural “pear wine” which then undergoes a secondary fermentation méthode champenoise. It is then left to sit sur lie for six years for maximum minerality before disgorgement, when it is topped up with reserve Schwarze Birne sparkling.

Vintage: 2016
Fruit: Black Pears (Schwarze Birne)
Style: Cider
ABV: 8.5%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Württemberg
Viticulture: Uncertified by any authority, Helmut Dolde is guided by his dedication to caring for the wild, alpine terroir he wants to preserve for future generations. Helmut eschews the organic movement—because it allows the use of copper sulfates—and focuses instead on leaving the soil in a better condition than he found it. A former scientist, he’s constantly experimenting with synthetics that do less harm and are more biodegradable than treatments allowed under certain organic certifications.
Age of Trees: 100+ years old
Soils: Calcareous marl with pebbles of limestone and clay (known in Burgundy as marne blanche) formed by corals and marine life that thrived in the sea toward the end of the Jurassic period.
Elevation: 1000 feet
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Gently pressed in a basket press then ferments in stainless steel.
Aging: 6 years on lees before disgorgement to express minerality.

HELMUT DOLDE :: Silvaner + Riesling

The best of both worlds - a 50/50 blend that melds the bright acidity of silvaner with the fruitforwardness of riesling. A wine that, in Helmut's words, "does not polarize," versatile amongst all occasions and friends.

Vintage: 2020
Grapes: 50% Silvaner, 50% Riesling
Style: White Wine
ABV: 12.5%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Württemberg
Viticulture: Uncertified by any authority, Helmut Dolde is guided by his dedication to caring for the wild, alpine terroir he wants to preserve for future generations. Helmut eschews the organic movement—because it allows the use of copper sulfates—and focuses instead on leaving the soil in a better condition than he found it. A former scientist, he’s constantly experimenting with synthetics that do less harm and are more biodegradable than treatments allowed under certain organic certifications.
Age of Vines: 15-30 years old
Soils: Calcareous marl with pebbles of limestone and clay (known in Burgundy as marne blanche) formed by corals and marine life that thrived in the sea toward the end of the Jurassic period.
Elevation: 700 feet
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Fermented together in stainless steel
Aging: Aged 6 months on lees in steel tanks
Fining or Filtering: None

HELMUT DOLDE :: Silvaner Weißer Jura

This taut, electric Silvaner, the inspiration for our Da steppt der Bär Pet’Nat, hails from Dolde’s highest vineyards in Neuffen. Perched around 1600 feet above sea level, these vines enjoy many fog-free days in autumn and also cool nights. The diurnal shift between day and night are important for the development of complex aromas and for maintaining freshness in the wine. Coupled with the strongly calcareous soils, this particular terroir is ideally suited to realizing Helmut’s vision of crystalline alpine white wines — combining verve and minerals with a textural coolness of fruit. The 2018 vintage is ripe and zippy, with a delicate acid line that makes one daydream of vin clair.

Vintage: 2019
Grapes: Silvaner
Style: White Wine
ABV: 13%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Württemberg
Viticulture: Uncertified by any authority, Helmut Dolde is guided by his dedication to caring for the wild, alpine terroir he wants to preserve for future generations. Helmut eschews the organic movement—because it allows the use of copper sulfates—and focuses instead on leaving the soil in a better condition than he found it. A former scientist, he’s constantly experimenting with synthetics that do less harm and are more biodegradable than treatments allowed under certain organic certifications.
Age of Vines: 15 years old
Soils: Calcareous marl with pebbles of limestone and clay (known in Burgundy as marne blanche) formed by corals and marine life that thrived toward the end of the Jurassic period.
Elevation: 1,600 feet
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 24 hour cold soak then pressed and fermented in stainless steel for 3-4 weeks.
Aging: Aged 6 months on lees in steel tanks
Fining or Filtering: None

HELMUT DOLDE :: Silvaner Alte Reben

Ever the lover of idioms, Helmut introduced this wine to us as the “Swiss Army knife of Silvaners.” Indeed, his Silvaner Alte Reben (“old vine”) goes a long way to express the versatility of the grape, which shows much elegance in its sixty years of age. The vines reach peak productivity in their youth (around twenty years of age), after which time their yield decreases significantly and continuously. Over time, there are fewer grapes, which means they enjoy a greater concentration of nutrients from the soil. Their aroma is denser, more complex, and their resulting texture is full of tension — amplified by Dolde’s decision to leave the grapes in contact with the mash for highest tannic extraction: “Silvaner for specialists.”

Vintage: 2020
Grapes: Silvaner
Style: White Wine
ABV: 13.5%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Württemberg
Viticulture: Uncertified by any authority, Helmut Dolde is guided by his dedication to caring for the wild, alpine terroir he wants to preserve for future generations. Helmut eschews the organic movement—because it allows the use of copper sulfates—and focuses instead on leaving the soil in a better condition than he found it. A former scientist, he’s constantly experimenting with synthetics that do less harm and are more biodegradable than treatments allowed under certain organic certifications.
Age of Vines: 60 years old
Soils: Calcareous marl with pebbles of limestone and clay (known in Burgundy as marne blanche) formed by corals and marine life that thrived toward the end of the Jurassic period.
Elevation: 1400 feet
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 24 hour cold soak then pressed and fermented in stainless steel for 3-4 weeks. 
Aging: Aged 6 months on lees in steel tanks; 10% is aged in new barrels.
Fining or Filtering: None

HELMUT DOLDE :: Silvaner Vulkan

This Silvaner is from a special parcel of Dolde’s Linsenhöfer vineyards where the vines grow near a volcanic vent. The volcanic soil is dark, sandy and easily heated but contains many minerals. Due to the volcanic elements, the rock there is mixed with material from a depth of almost thirteen miles. It yields grapes that evoke a lighter, less fruit-forward version of the Silvaner Weißer Jura: salty and mineral, the Chablis of Silvaner.

Vintage: 2018
Grapes: Silvaner
Style: White Wine
ABV: 12%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Württemberg
Viticulture: Uncertified by any authority, Helmut Dolde is guided by his dedication to caring for the wild, alpine terroir he wants to preserve for future generations. Helmut eschews the organic movement—because it allows the use of copper sulfates—and focuses instead on leaving the soil in a better condition than he found it. A former scientist, he’s constantly experimenting with synthetics that do less harm and are more biodegradable than treatments allowed under certain organic certifications.
Age of Vines: 15 years old
Soils: Sandy Volcanic Soil
Elevation: 1,000 feet
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: 24 hour cold soak then pressed and fermented in stainless steel for 3-4 weeks. After fermentation the lees are stirred to express minerality and reduce primary aromas.
Aging: Aged 6 months on lees in steel tanks
Fining or Filtering: None

HELMUT DOLDE :: Roter Jura

The grapes of the Roter Jura were carefully collected and co-planted by one of Helmut’s and Hedwig’s older neighbors several decades ago. The man had filled the small parcel with various red varieties just for the fun of tending to the plants, all of which are farmed organically by hand and only fed natural, self-produced compost.

When the neighbor began sharing the fruit with Helmut several years ago, Helmut had no idea what to do with the grapes until a very creative local cook requested a special wine to pair with the specialty meat dishes of the Swabian Alb (think: lamb and wild deer aromatized with wild herbs like oregano, thyme, and rosemary). Thus was the beginning of Project "Roter Jura" - the ultimate alpine red, one that bursts with bright fruit and high-toned energy, grounded by a little bit of spice and deep, long finish. Helmut highly recommends it with ratatouille!

Vintage: 2018
Grapes: Cabernet Mitos (Cab Sauv x Lemberger), Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Lemberger (Blaufränkisch), Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir)
Style: Red Wine
ABV: 13.5% Alcohol by Volume
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Württemberg
Viticulture: Uncertified by any authority, Helmut Dolde is guided by his dedication to caring for the wild, alpine terroir he wants to preserve for future generations. Helmut eschews the organic movement—because it allows the use of copper sulfates—and focuses instead on leaving the soil in a better condition than he found it. A former scientist, he’s constantly experimenting with synthetics that do less harm and are more biodegradable than treatments allowed under certain organic certifications.
Age of Vines: Average age 20 year old
Soils: Brauner Jura
Elevation: 1000 feet
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Fermented in used 500L Tonneau made of wood from the forest directly behind the vineyards. Long slow fermentation over the cold winter where it naturally finishes malolactic fermentation in the late spring/early summer.
Aging: Aged 1 year in 500L Swabian oak barrels
Fining or Filtering: None

HELMUT DOLDE :: Linsenhöfer Spätburgunder Fass I

The Linsenhöfer vineyards are rooted in the same geologic layer as Burgundy’s Côte d’Or. High altitude ensures many sunny, fog-free days in autumn but also cool nights, resulting in large diurnal shifts between day and night that are important for the development of complex aromas and for maintaining freshness in the wine. Helmut is of the mind that what grows together, goes together, a philosophy extending to fermentation and aging vessels made from Swabian oak in nearby forests by a local cooper. Recently, he has begun using larger 500 L barrels since they offer a smaller surface area vs. volume ratio, resulting in less extraction and a wine that tastes how a forest smells. Dark, alpine fruit with a warm, boozy lick.

Vintage: 2018
Grapes: Spätburgunder
Style: Red Wine
ABV: 13% Alcohol by Volume
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Württemberg
Viticulture: Uncertified by any authority, Helmut Dolde is guided by his dedication to caring for the wild, alpine terroir he wants to preserve for future generations. Helmut eschews the organic movement—because it allows the use of copper sulfates—and focuses instead on leaving the soil in a better condition than he found it. A former scientist, he’s constantly experimenting with synthetics that do less harm and are more biodegradable than treatments allowed under certain organic certifications.
Age of Vines: 20 years old
Soils: Calcareous marl with pebbles of limestone and clay (known in Burgundy as marne blanche) formed by corals and marine life that thrived toward the end of the Jurassic period.
Elevation: 1000 feet
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Destemmed only if possible without damaging the berries. Cold maceration. Mash fermentation, first with careful pushing down of the berries with the feet, and later with a wooden stamp. 3-4 weeks of gentle pressing before fermenting in used 500L Tonneau made of wood from the forest directly behind the vineyards
Aging: 1 year in 500L Swabian oak barrels
Fining or Filtering: None

HELMUT DOLDE :: ASekt Apple Cider

Dotting Helmut’s vines is an orchard of majestic apple trees, aged 80-100 years old. They belong to the variety known as Kardinal Bea — a medium to large apple with juicy, sweet-tart skin and low sugar content (named in honor of Cardinal Augustin Bea, a German-Jesuit priest who promotes Catholic-Jewish dialogue in the 60s). Every fall, Helmut harvests the fruit by hand and lets the apples ferment before they undergo a secondary fermentation méthode champenoise. They spend two years on the lees before disgorgement, resulting in an exuberant apple fizz that sings for years on end.

Vintage: 2017
Fruit: Apples (Kardinal Bea)
Style: Cider
ABV: 11.5%
Region: Swabia
Sub-Region or Appellation: Württemberg
Viticulture: Uncertified by any authority, Helmut Dolde is guided by his dedication to caring for the wild, alpine terroir he wants to preserve for future generations. Helmut eschews the organic movement—because it allows the use of copper sulfates—and focuses instead on leaving the soil in a better condition than he found it. A former scientist, he’s constantly experimenting with synthetics that do less harm and are more biodegradable than treatments allowed under certain organic certifications.
Age of Trees: 100+ years old
Soils: Calcareous marl with pebbles of limestone and clay (known in Burgundy as marne blanche) formed by corals and marine life that thrived in the sea toward the end of the Jurassic period.
Elevation: 1000 feet
Yeasts: Indigenous
Vinification: Gently pressed in a basket press then fermented in stainless steel
Aging: 6 years on lees before disgorgement to express minerality